200A and 202 reproduction
frames back
in stock.
grob
Here is the 228B I got at a flea market a couple weeks ago and I got it back together. It is in nice shape and is date stamped Oct. 1936. The Genny needle got mangled it the process, so the money shot will have to wait. I'll use the nickle tube it came with. When installing the clean out body, I could only get it about a 1/4 turn past where it was before and it got REAL tight. It is now 180 degrees from where it should be, but at least the bail is in the right position. The after shot then before,
Gary
[228b_5s-59242759]  [cole_228b_10s-37195154]  [228b_4s-14951548]  [cole_228b_12s-28012522]  [228b_3s-59484332]  [cole_228b_5s-36394552]  [228b_7s-21076607]  [cole_228b_2s-8009746] 
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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rob_pontius
That cleaned up nicely. Can you rotate the clean out housing 180 degrees either way? Maybe loosen it up and use some thread sealer.
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Ridge Runner
Nice clean-up! Certainly doesn't look 83 years old.

-- L.J.
Don't reinvent the wheel, build a better mouse trap!
"Ain’t no need to watch where I’m goin’; just need to know where I’ve been" -Tow Mater

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grob
rob_pontius wrote:
That cleaned up nicely. Can you rotate the clean out housing 180 degrees either way? Maybe loosen it up and use some thread sealer.

What kind of sealer would be good on the clean out body threads? I was thinking Anti-Seize, as it is good to 1600F and made with aluminum, copper and graphite in grease. It is fairly tight at 1/4 turn to far and really tight at 180 degrees from where it should be, so it should still be pretty tight if I back it off.
Thanks Rob
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
grob
What kind of sealer would be good on the clean out body threads? I was thinking Anti-Seize, as it is good to 1600F and made with aluminum, copper and graphite in grease. It is fairly tight at 1/4 turn to far and really tight at 180 degrees from where it should be, so it should still be pretty tight if I back it off. You can see the the clean out rod is facing backwards on the 228B. Also I had 2 brass lamp washers that I drilled out and placed them on the vents. They give a finished look and cover up missing porcelain around the hole.

Here is a photo with Mount Meeker (left) and Long's Peak (fourteener) in the background in Rocky Mountain National Park about 20mi. from here.
Gary

[220e_228b_mtns-14527505] 
[220e_228bs-63581296] 
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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Colemannut
Gary, I guess you are referring to the cleaner assembly as the cleanout body? From the looks of your last picture, you shouldn't have that much room under the vent nut to put any tapered washer of any kind. So I am guessing you need to keep threading the cleaner assembly down into the valve assembly. This will help you correctly clock your lantern with the tip cleaner between the valve knob and fuel cap. Just like your 220E. No thread sealer is needed. Plus the burner assembly needs to be threaded further into the cleaner assembly to help adjust the height of the vent rod. There is a lot of adjustments on these 220/228's. Good practice though.
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grob
I would still like to know what kind of sealer would be good on the cleaner assembly threads in case I need it. I'll back out the cleaner assembly (has the eccentric in it) 180 degrees out of the fuel valve and do a dunk test with the tank pumped up and check for leaks. It was 1/4 turn past where it should be (before photos) when I got it and I got it another 1/4 turn past that (180 degrees from normal) when I put it back together, but can't get it another 1/2 turn without risking breaking something. It is really tight and 83 years old. I guess the cleaner assembly has the same type tapered threads like the fuel valve has into the fount. Well, I try to get the terms right. Thanks Colemannut.

One thing I did that worked was to put a 9/16" deep socket over the fuel valve nut and stem, then placed the socket in a vice while supporting the fount underneath to keep the fuel valve assembly from moving while tightening the cleaner assembly into it. The socket also fits nicely into the hole in the base rest/collar to keep it centered while tightening. Gary
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
grob
Took it apart again, did a dunk test, cleaned up the air and burner tubes some more, but stopped before to much nickel was removed. The burner tubes look a bit brassy in these pics, but there is still nickel remaining. When reassembling, I somehow got the upper frame and cleaner assembly turned another 1/2 turn and is clocked right finally. The air tube has some damage from a PO. Pliers marks and it is a little bit squished  >:-(
Gary

[228b_12s-61938482]  [228b_10s-5067743] 
[228b_9s-77270916]  [228b_8s-54599912] 
[228b_11s-11154745] 
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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Colemannut
Looking good. Now to find a nickel 3 piece fuel cap.

What is the cone shaped spacer between the vent and ball nut for?
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grob
Thanks Colemannut, I need a proper vent nut, genny and globe too. The cone shaped brass spacer is just a nice touch and hides the usual missing porcelain around the vent hole. The 228B is a little shorter than my 220E that I build cases for and the brass spacer raises the vent nut up a little to be more secure in the hole that is in the case lid. Vent nut and bolt are about level at the top. I also got the air tube one more turn into the cleaner assembly. There is a short, threaded air tube extension below the cleaner assembly that was threaded up too far and I backed it out for room for the main air tube to thread down. Like you said... many adjustments.
Gar
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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holliswood
That turned out nice Gary! The one I’m working on isn’t going to shine up that good. Nickel isn’t my strong point sadly. 
Mil-SpecOps #1278
snipesfred on Insta
Looking for B-Day 1978 Armstrong MilSpec 
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grob
Thanks. I used 0000 steel wool and Meguires mirror glaze chrome polish, as it is what I have. Then another round only with polish & terry cloth and buff out. Could use some more work and folks here like Mothers.
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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1hpycmpr
That looks nice, Gary!  I have only one 228 in my collection and it’s a B as well.  Great looking lanterns!
Mark
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grob
Thanks Mark, Got pics of the B? I still need a cap for my 220E and now for the 228B. Saw photos of your display at a fair in Longmont. Have to cruise this year. Gar
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
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1hpycmpr
grob wrote:
Thanks Mark, Got pics of the B? I still need a cap for my 220E and now for the 228B. Saw photos of your display at a fair in Longmont. Have to cruise this year. Gar

Here's my 228B
[IMG-0086-Copy]
Yea, stop by the show if you get a chance.  I'll be there Friday and Saturday and I can bring a nice cap for your 220E or PM me if you need it sooner.  And I'll check if I have one for your 228B.
Mark
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grob
No rush. The show is in Aug. yes? At the Fair Grounds, or? How much do you want for the caps? Need a proper vent nut for the B too.
What year is your B? It has the winged cap. I think mine would have a knurled one yes? I have drawn up vector art for the early brass direction disc as well as the later aluminum one. They are a little different. Perhaps someone is doing repros? I think a brass one would look great, if not correct.
Thanks, Gar
Watch me paste this pathetic palooka with a powerful paralyzing perfect pachyderms percussion pitch.
- Bugs

Boy, I say boy... you're about to exceed the limitations of my medication.
- Foggy
Quote
1hpycmpr
The show is at the Dougherty Museum on 287.  I’m setting up the morning of Aug. 23rd and will be there until the late afternoon on the 24th or Sunday, if the heat doesn’t dry me up and blow me away!  I’ll have to check the B date after I dig it out tonight and yes, I believe yours would have the knurled cap.  Let me check on the caps and vent nut and get back to you tonight.
I am unaware of anyone making a repo brass disc.  
Mark
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1hpycmpr
grob wrote:
What year is your B? It has the winged cap.

My B has a 9 on the left and a 3 on the right.  PM sent...
Mark
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