Sportsman globe
Blow out price
Was $19
Now $8
Aspbear
A couple of weeks ago I found an old big hat that was painted all over with oil base silver paint with a brush.  I cleaned the collar off and saw it was a 228C. So I decided I was going to save it if possible.  I did check the fount first and once I got the bung resodered it seemed Ok.

Got it all cleaned up and lit it but it faded after a minute or so checked again and it showed the check valve was leaking.  Took it out got it to working put it back leaked again. Took it out replaced it with a new one it leaked again so I looked to see where it was leaking seems to be coming out around the threads.  So thinking of using some kind of sealer on the threads looking for suggestions?  This is the old style check valve.

Hate to use a permanent sealer but it was a lot of work getting to this point so I want to finish it if possible

Any suggestions appreciated.
G.B. Harp
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Chucker
Your average soft sold works if you can get it in the right spot. Not an easy effort on your part. 

I've never heard of anyone using JB Weld or anything similar that works in that situation. One permanent fix is to empty a tube of two part epoxy in the pump tube (or Caswell's to be safe). Then get one of those Schrader valve fuel caps made famous by the Amish. It will work. 
Chuck
"Be angry and do not sin. Meditate within your heart on your bed, and be still...put your trust in the LORD." Ps. 4/4-5
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Aspbear
Thanks Chuck, like I said don't want to do it but I never thought of the Amish way.   I may play with it a little more and then go the Schrader way
G.B. Harp
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zoomkat
I'd try some pipe dope or Teflon tape on the threads.
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RonMack
Do you think if you completely dried everything out and just used Blue Loctite it would hold? I ha d a MilSpec that had been epoxied and it broke my check valve tool.  
Ron    ICCC # 1770

Forget the map and the GPS. "I know where we are!!!!

Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0174 BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #020 MilSpecOps #0032 
Coleman Slant Saver #45
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Gand28
zoomkat wrote:
I'd try some pipe dope or Teflon tape on the threads.


I had to resort to some Teflon tape to get a 242 pip to seal. 
Greg -- Fiat Lux!
ICCC Member #1273
Seeker of Canadian Nickel!
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Aspbear
I may try a few thing like the tape and blue loctite, started to try them today but thought I would ask first. Thought I might take the check valve to ace and see what rubber washers I could find.
G.B. Harp
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JimL
I'd consider a fuel resistant O-ring or tinning the threads of the check valve.  I had an old R55 that wouldn't seal, so I tried tinning the threads and it works just fine.

-Jim

Author of the children’s books:

 - Santa Claus And Other Lies Your Parents Told You
 - Pop! Goes Froggy, And Other Great Microwave Games
 - Operation and Nomenclature of the Colt 1911-A1 .45 ACP

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scl
the o ring worked on a 242 junior i have and i have one that i replaced the pip and looks like it also needs the o ring to. in time the threads will seal.
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Majicwrench
Simple first, why not just put an Oring on it?? Some have an Oring from the factory.
If not an Oring, blue loctite should work. Pipe tape is not for fuel unless you get the right stuff.
Keith
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Phredd
I had one that I thought had the same problem on a 220F. Tried 2 different values (one was brand new). Used some thread tape.. nothing seemed to help.  Turns out the problem was not the valve or the valve seat. There was a couple of tiny rust holes in the tube down near the seat..  I found this out by coating the tube with a thin film of dawn detergent and then very gently pumping up the fount and saw two bubbles forming...crap... had to get a new (used) fount.

I'm thinking of trying to saw the entire fount in half to get a nice model of the inside.....
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Jim_l
Been a while since I had mine apart, but doesn't the C's have the fat check valve like the B's and milspecs ?
If so, I don't think an o-ring will work.
Matthew 5:16: "Let your light so shine before men, that they may see your good works, and glorify your Father which is in heaven." Jim-- Coleman Blues Member #014
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Eel
I haven't been able to touch a BC CV and pick an O-ring size.  Like the more recent version, there's a face that is susceptible to sealing.  The more recent version's oring is a -011.

Some people come home from a GPA gathering with less stuff than they left home with.  Apparently I am not one of those people...

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Aspbear
OK, once I got a camera down to where I could see the CV the leak was the whole seam at the bottom of the tube.  So I took Chuck's advice and just went Amish.  I Casswell the tube and then used some JB steel to make a storage compartment out of the tube it now holds a small 7/16 inch wrench and some extra mantles not enough lenght for a extra generator.  Here it is I should have taken a before it was painted with brush on silver oil based paint all over now it runs great. HPIM0033.jpg  HPIM0043.jpg 
G.B. Harp
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Chucker
Hey, looks great! Some times the last resort has to be taken. 
Chuck
"Be angry and do not sin. Meditate within your heart on your bed, and be still...put your trust in the LORD." Ps. 4/4-5
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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Aspbear
Yeah Hated to change it but I did not see another answer.  Dated June 1945 220C   Thanks for the tip.
G.B. Harp
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Aspbear
should be 228C
G.B. Harp
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REJ2
Very nice save, decal and lantern!
Bob    
Never, ever, leave behind a $5 lamp
MilSpecOps Syndicate #016
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate #0131
Coleman Blues 243 #86
BernzOmatic Appreciation Club #047
ICCC #1574
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1hpycmpr
Nice to see that the lantern is up and running again!  Much better than it never running again and great idea on the parts well.
Mark
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ecblanks
Interesting solution, thanks for posting.  For others reading, if you are having issues with the CV leaking and you know the CV is good, check for debris where the CV seats down in the fount, and either clean that out or use the o-ring. 
Carlton - 9/73
Coleman 275 Appreciation Syndicate # 0176
Slant Saver #29
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Aspbear
I did try an o ring but the old style cv on these lanterns have a cone shape taper with no flat section for an o ring to seat against.
G.B. Harp
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NWMike
I'm wondering if tinning the the tapered end with a little solder wouldn't work on the cv?  I've had that work with the tapered surface of other valves when the seating gets a little worn.
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Chucker
NWMike wrote:
I'm wondering if tinning the the tapered end with a little solder wouldn't work on the cv?  I've had that work with the tapered surface of other valves when the seating gets a little worn.


Yes, probably. 
Chuck
"Be angry and do not sin. Meditate within your heart on your bed, and be still...put your trust in the LORD." Ps. 4/4-5
Eye-SEE-C-C Member #1333 -- MilSpecOps #003
"Michigan - from the Ojibwa word “meicigama,” meaning “great water.”
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