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VWguy

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I waited to start this thread until I could verify this lantern was rebuild material. It looks like it will be good to go on all the original parts it came with expect the globe and fiber wheel. The tank has no cracks or pinholes, but it does contain rust. Below is a picture of the inside of the tank after one treatment with krud kutter. Also half of the top hat was polished quickly with a promising result. This seems like it will be a strait forward job. One question.. Q99 or R55?

[2YCdq6K] 

[fmYRTX6] 

[SUJsjeg] 

[DNHO8up] 

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Lookin' good, Zach.  Keep going.
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Reply with quote  #3 
Special lantern should have an original Q99.

There are threads on how to glue a fiber wheel back together. It may be hard to find a good “B” wheel that someone will give up.

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VWguy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gand28
Special lantern should have an original Q99.

There are threads on how to glue a fiber wheel back together. It may be hard to find a good “B” wheel that someone will give up.


I'll have to start looking for a q99. Might be hard to find an OG that's not way over priced.

I'll start looking for a B fiber wheel and attempt to mend mine.

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Rubing

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Reply with quote  #5 
Nice lantern, search oven cleaner you might like it. If the valve wheel is separated I have had good luck in the past with Elmer’s glue. Apply it in the seperations, put a flat washer on each side and clamp together, make sure you remove the excess glue before it hardens and then just set aside until you are ready for it.
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You are off to a great start. That rust in the fount will come out in no time. Evaporust is my “go to” solution for that.

+1 on using a Q99.
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Any thoughts on how I can repair the graphite seal on the fill and pump cap? It's not a good seal and is missing chunks. I could remove the graphite and put a rubber o ring in, unless it's possible to repack the graphite.
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Rubing

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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWguy
Any thoughts on how I can repair the graphite seal on the fill and pump cap? It's not a good seal and is missing chunks. I could remove the graphite and put a rubber o ring in, unless it's possible to repack the graphite.
You can order replacements from our sponsor OCP.

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VWguy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubing
You can order replacements from our sponsor OCP.


Not that graphite. I mean the graphite around the underside of the fill cap. I didnt see anything like that on ocp.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by VWguy


Not that graphite. I mean the graphite around the underside of the fill cap. I didnt see anything like that on ocp.


Its not graphite, it’s a lead seal. You have to really wrench on them to get it tight. I use a small black o-ring on my filler plugs like this. Lets you close and open by hand and it’s not really noticeable.

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VWguy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gand28


Its not graphite, it’s a lead seal. You have to really wrench on them to get it tight. I use a small black o-ring on my filler plugs like this. Lets you close and open by hand and it’s not really noticeable.


Aww ok, I'll do that then.

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If you have your heart set on keeping the lead seal, you can reflow the lead with a little heat or add some lead from some fishing sinkers.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gand28
If you have your heart set on keeping the lead seal, you can reflow the lead with a little heat or add some lead from some fishing sinkers.


Hmm good call ok the fishing sinkers. Ill try that, either way I can still throw an O ring on there.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gand28
If you have your heart set on keeping the lead seal, you can reflow the lead with a little heat or add some lead from some fishing sinkers.
Or you can buy a replacement lead seal from Fred Kuntz.

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VWguy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubing
Or you can buy a replacement lead seal from Fred Kuntz.


I may do that, i gotta email him soon and get the order going for a globe anyway. Wonder what the best way to remove the old lead seal would be? 

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Reply with quote  #16 
Just one picture for tonight. The Rust in the tank was being stubborn so I gave it a ride on the tumbler for 15 min with the rust cleaner inside.. Seemed to really shake some stuff loose. Ill dump the results out tomorrow. I buffed out the collar and top hat. started the rust treatment on the frame. Cleaned all the paint off the fount, and besides the dents here and there, its a nice one. 

[4LO8h6J] 

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Reply with quote  #17 
Sounds like your making progress on the LZ. All those dings and dents are part of its story. Looking forward to the lite up.
I found one a few months ago. Love it. Wife even said it can be in the house. What a gal.

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VWguy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve p
Sounds like your making progress on the LZ. All those dings and dents are part of its story. Looking forward to the lite up.
I found one a few months ago. Love it. Wife even said it can be in the house. What a gal.


Haha, yea. I have 2 dirty lamps and an optimus 1200 that have been on the dining table for 2 weeks, no word from the misses about moving em. The finished ones that are cleaned up nice go in my office.

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Reply with quote  #19 
That's looking fine, Zach!

I have a half-dozen of the nickel-plated brass vents (top hats), and none were even close to as good of a condition as your started in. All of mine have been caved-in in the center from over-tightened ball nuts, and most were in several pieces.

OCP has your repro Q99s. After an hour or so of running it will look just like a vintage one. I like to unscrew the tip from a new or old Q99 and flush it with carb cleaner from the bottom on the belief that this will wash any any loose pieces of the fiber packing. Seems to work, as I haven't had to prick one yet.

Be very careful threading the new (or old) gen into the valve. It's very easy to strip those threads out, and very difficult to repair.

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VWguy

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Reply with quote  #20 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunhippie
That's looking fine, Zach!

I have a half-dozen of the nickel-plated brass vents (top hats), and none were even close to as good of a condition as your started in. All of mine have been caved-in in the center from over-tightened ball nuts, and most were in several pieces.

OCP has your repro Q99s. After an hour or so of running it will look just like a vintage one. I like to unscrew the tip from a new or old Q99 and flush it with carb cleaner from the bottom on the belief that this will wash any any loose pieces of the fiber packing. Seems to work, as I haven't had to prick one yet.

Be very careful threading the new (or old) gen into the valve. It's very easy to strip those threads out, and very difficult to repair.


Im working on that right now in fact. The previous owner of this lantern broke the generator off just above the threads. Its going to take some heat and vice grips go get the old generator that rusted, out of the base. So wish me luck on that, its the last part im really worried about. The rest should be A-ok!

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Reply with quote  #21 
Making progress! A torch on the old lead in the fill cap will have it flowing out in no time.
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VWguy

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Just a small update today. I buffed the collar and top hat well. Seems to be in good condition. I also was able to remove the old broken off generator from the valve ass. little heat and it came out nicely. 

[airWgqx] 

[91jUZJn] 

I also saw this Alladin wick lamp at a shop near me, even at $140 I was really tempted to buy it. Its really cool looking I thought. I passed for now. 

[B0HiO8P]

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Reply with quote  #23 
Bit of progress today. Cleaned up the parts mostly with steel wool. The frame is pretty shot, not sure if I should try to find another or send it! Functionally its fine, just rusty. Thoughts? I flowed a led fishing weight and got the cap to seal up nicely. Im just waiting on the fiber wheel to dry. I had some more cracks to seal up before I spray it with a water resistant and UV resistant urethane. 

[image]  [kvzJ1l0]  [XVjFYL6]  [ux8wcV1] 

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Reply with quote  #24 
Zach, that frame looks really decent to me.  They were plated, so the shiny parts are what's left of the plating.  Brush on some naval jelly where the rust is and let it work for a few minutes.  Then, start scraping the rust to get down to bare steel.  You'll probably need to repeat a few times.  When you get it where you're happy with the rust removal, follow up with some Barkeeper's Friend and a scouring pad, then finish off with an SOS Pad.  Once it dries completely, you should have a good finish that still retains some of the nickel plating in spots.  That's what I do, anyway.


VWguy

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Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonMichael
Zach, that frame looks really decent to me.  They were plated, so the shiny parts are what's left of the plating.  Brush on some naval jelly where the rust is and let it work for a few minutes.  Then, start scraping the rust to get down to bare steel.  You'll probably need to repeat a few times.  When you get it where you're happy with the rust removal, follow up with some Barkeeper's Friend and a scouring pad, then finish off with an SOS Pad.  Once it dries completely, you should have a good finish that still retains some of the nickel plating in spots.  That's what I do, anyway.




Ive never used the Navel Jelly, ive seen it used, just never tried it. Maybe ill give it a shot instead of leaving the rust. 

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Reply with quote  #26 
Repair on that valve wheel looks awesome! Glad you invested the time in that. I second Michael’s naval jelly routine. He taught me how to do it!
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