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First, you will need one of these:

Start with a flat blade screw driver and remove the four screws holding the frame assembly:

Remove the frame to expose the burner assembly:

Next, remove the burner/vaporizer nut:

Next, turn the tip cleaner so that it points up!

Carefully, slide the nut up the vaporizer tube and lift off the burner assembly from the fount. Be careful as you will need to remove the tip cleaner from the eccentric block.

You can also just leave the tip cleaner in the eccentric block and lift off the burner assembly:

Once the burner assembly is removed, you can then remove the tip cleaner from the eccentric block:

Here is the burner asembly without the tip cleaner:

Now put the tip cleaner back into the burner assembly for safe keeping:

Now remove the screw holding the pump plunger assembly. On a 530 stove, there is only one:

Examine the pump leather:

This one will need to be oiled. It is very dry. This will come during reassembly.

Here is the fount with just the valve assembly in it:

Next, remove the tip cleaner stem:

The eccentric block will drop into the valve. that's okay. we'll get it out shortly!

Now, remove the valve wheel:

Here, you see the eccentric block inside the valve:

It should just shake out:

If not, use a dental pick or a tip cleaner rod from a lantern generator and hook the block and pull it out.

Close up of eccentric block:

Does it look a little familiar? Yes, it is the same as a 220/228C to F eccentric.

Next, we remove the valve assembly from the fount. There are a couple of ways of doing this. Here, I have lightly put the valve stem nut in the jaws of my bench vise. Once it is secure, I unscrew the fount from the valve just so it is loose:

Remove the fount from the vise and then unscrew the valve assembly by hand and remove it from the fount:

Here is the fuel pick up tube: (Sorry for the whitish look. Should have left the flash off on the camera)

Next, remove the fuel pick up tube from the valve:

Hey! This looks familiar, too! The 530 pick up tube is the same part as a 242/200/200A pick up tube!

Lastly, here is how the valve looks with no other parts attached:

Since I am more concerned about function than beauty on this rebuild, we will do a minimal cleaning.

If I could suggest a tool to add to your lantern building arsenal, it would be this:

A flex light is great for seeing the inside condition of a fount:

More pics using the flex light:

The inside of this fount isn't too bad, so I will fill the fount about 1/3 full:

and then put my thumbs ovr the fuel filler hole and the valve fitting hole and shake the fount vigorously:

I then pour the dirty fuel back into another fuel can through  a Coleman filter funnel to catch as much crud as possible:

This is the crap out of the fount on the first splash & rinse:

With that amount of rust and crud, we must have gotten all of it. However, this is the second rinse:

Once the fuel rinse comes out clear, you are done. For really cruddy founts, you can add steel BBS to the gasoline to knock the rust loose. Some members also use sharp screws instead of BBS. If you use steel BBs or screws, you can retrieve, you can any leftovers that do not want to come out with a magnet.

Like the author of many rebuilds before this one, I like this product for cleaning surface dirt:

After the Simple Green, I used this product on the fount:

Doesn't look too bad for being 65 years old:

I have removed the check valve using the tool desgned by Matthewb, first built by Bob Frank and later by Forum members Don Burchell and now by Dan MacPherson for cleaning using carburetor cleaner:

These next two pictures are of the cleaned check valve and the valve stem:

Next, grab your fuel & air tube:

Remove the rod and spring from the tube:

Now take the rod and slide it into the hole at the bottom of the tube. This will make sure that the hole is clear.

Now take the spring and stretch it slightly. this will help in lighting a cold stove:

Just stretch  it a little:

Before I forget, spray some carb cleaner down the tube! This will make sure it is clear. If you have a compressor, blow air through it, also.

Once it is clean, put the tube up to your lips and blow throught it. Cover the hole in the bottom of the tube as you blow and be sure there is air coming out of the hole at the top side of the tube:

Now cover the top side hole and be sure there is air coming out of the bottom hole, too!

As I said, this rebuild is more abount functionality, but I did clean the frame supports with the Simple Green and then this product:

The burner assembly can be cleaned also:

The generator/vaporizer unthreads from the burner bowl:

Remove the cleaning rod from the screen and then you can remove the screen for cleaning:

Once you have the screen out, you can unroll it and soak it in vinegar to clean:

After cleaning the screen, re-roll it and reinsert into the generator tube.

Earlier I mentioned that the pump leather was pretty dry. Let's take a closer look at it:

Closer yet:

Okay, now gently turn the leather inside out, sort of like opening an umbrella:

Now get out your Neet's Foot oil:

...and pour a small amount on both sides of the leather. Work it in real good so the leather soaks it up!


First, put your check valve back into the fount.

Then put your fuel & air tube back on the valve assembly.

Before I put the valve assembly back into the fount, I use this on the threads:

Don't need a whole lot:

As you can see in the photo below, I use a long socket extension and deep socket to tighten the valve:

Make sure the valve is oriented where it was when we disassembled it, 180 degrees from the fuel cap:

Now get the pump plunger and work the leather back into the pump plunger tube:

This can sometimes be a PITA but tske your time and slowly work the edge into the tube. You can use a small screwdriver to push the edge in, if need be.

Finally in:

Now on to the tip cleaner assembly! Starting with the eccentric block:

Hook it to the tip cleaning rod, and then install the tip cleaner. You will have to "feel'" when the tip cleaner engages the eccentric. You'll know you have it correct as the eccentric will go up and down when you spin the cleaning lever.

Now get your burner assebly and install it:

As you may have noticed, the bronze three piece fuel cap is now a nickel one piece cap. Flat ran out of nickel three piece caps, so this one will suffice for now.

Since this animal is all assembled with the exception of the frame, it's a good time to test it to see if it works.

For those of you that have never seen a 530 stove lit for the first time, it could produce an "oh, crap" response! (Or maybe a crap your pants response!) The 530 has a nickname of being a "roarer"! In the next few pics, you will see why.

Light a match or your lighter, have it close to the top of the burner. Make sure the tip cleaner is in the down position. Open the valve wheel only until you hear fuel spurting. A quarter turn may be too much. When the stove lights, it will look like this:

As it warms up, ithe flame will slowly shrink in size:

This could take 5 to 7 minutes:

Still warming up:

Almost there:

Burning nicely:

Once she gets to burning  a steady blue, open the valve wheel all of the way. The flame is regulated with the tip cleaner:

Turned down a bit here:

Full throttle here:

Now shut her down and let her cool off!

Put your frame back on the fount, screw it down and light her up one more time:


Ah! Getting there!

Burning nice! Nice & noisy!

Added 3/15/11: Exploded 530 Diagram:

That concludes this rebuild. Hope this helps in some way as you attempt another rebuild of an old Coleman item.


Name: Murff   ICCC Member #726 
Coleman Blue's 243's #002   Ebay Handle: Happy-campers2 
ICCC Newsletter Editor & Coleman Addiction Enabler
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